"The pub, at least, is incontrovertibly English - low, bottle-lined, the ceiling browned with smoke, the bar ringed with sticky stuff, and the barman aged and grizzled. In front of him stands a row of hand-pull beer taps like stretched pepper mills. I ask for a pint of bitter. The barman says nothing. He places a glass under one of the electric pumps.That sums it all up really.
'No, no,' I say, and tap the nearest peppermill.
'Aint got none on,' says the barman and carries on pouring. I meekly buy what he puts in front of me.
It's too cold to taste, and to sweet to be called beer. It's alcoholic lolly-water, Orwellian beer, fuel for loutishness, bad brown lager, a travesty of English beer. Its the sort of beer, in fact, the rest of the world drinks."
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